Bucilla Purse

24 spools GLOSSILLA crochet Art. 4500, navy blue No. 450;
1 spool Wilson red No. 46;
blue celluloid handle No. 4266;
BUCILLA steel crochet hook size 8.

First Round : with blue ch 300, 1 sl st in 1st ch to form a ring, * 3 blue s c working over a strand of red, bring red strand forward, 1 blue s c, (do not work over red), carry red back and repeat from * ending with 1 blue s c in sl st. Do not join rounds. This band should measure about 15 inches when doubled.
Second Round: 2 blue s c over red, * 1 s c with red brought forward, 3 s c over red and repeat from *. This forms diagonal lines of red. Repeat until there are 17 rounds and finish with 3 sl sts.
Eighteenth Round : using blue only, ch 6, * skip 2 s c, 1 s c, ch 5, repeat from * until there are 99 loops, ch 2 and work 1 d c in 1st ch of round.
Nineteenth Round : ch 6, * 1 s c in next loop, ch 5 and repeat from * with last loop as in previous round. Repeat 19th round until there are 16 rounds of chain loops.
Thirty-Fourth Round: ch 3, * 1 s c in next loop, ch 2, repeat from * and finish round with ch 2 and 1 sl st.
Thirty-Fifth Round: repeat from 1st * of 1st round.
Thirty-Sixth Round: repeat 2nd round 8 times, then repeat 18th round once, and 19th round until there are 18 rounds of chain loops.
First Row: to shape one half of top of bag work 1 s c in loop, * ch 2, 1 s c in next loop, repeat from * 9 times, * ch 5, 1 s c in next loop, repeat from last * until there are 39 loops of 5 chs, ch 2 and finish with 1 d c in 3rd ch of next loop.
Second Row: ch 5, turn, * 1 s c in next loop, ch 5, repeat from * until there are 38 loops, ch 2 and finish with 1 d c in 3rd ch of next loop. Re¬peat 2nd row until there are 6 rows of loops, decreasing 1 loop each row. Then ch 2, turn, * 1 s c in next loop, ch 2, repeat from and fasten silk. Work other half to correspond and finish with 1 round of s c. Close lower end of bag with blue s c worked through both sides.
Fringe: using blue wind around a 5 inch card enough silk for 6 strands in every 4th st. Make an extra row of knotting 1 inch below ties.
Handle: with blue ch 12, join to form a ring, 1 s c in each ch and then 1 s c in each s c until tube meas-ures 18 inches. Draw tube through loops on handle and fasten. With red ch 14 and work a tube 4 rows wide. These are used as slides to cover joinings of handle.

Bag 1125 and 1127

Bag No. 1125 (bag pictured to the left)
14 spools GLOSSILLA crochet Art. 4500 purple No. 332; 14 spools ecru; white celluloid handle No. 4263; 1 wooden mould 1/2 of an inch in diameter; 1 mould 1 inches in diameter; BUCILLA steel crochet hook size S.
First Row: with purple ch 10, * 1 ecru s c, 1 purple s c, repeat from * and turn at end of each row.
Second and Third Rows: with ecru ch 1, draw purple through loop on hook, * 1 purple in purple s c, 1 ecru in ecru s c and repeat from *.
Fourth Row: 1 ecru, * 1 purple, 2 ecru in 1 ecru, repeat from * and end with 1 ecru in 1 ecru. Work 2 rows straight; 1 row of 1 ecru, * 2 pur¬ple in 1 purple, 2 ecru and repeat from * ; 3 rows straight.
Eleventh Row: 1 ecru, 2 purple, 2 ecru, 2 purple, 2 ecru, 3 purple in 2 pur¬ple, 2 ecru, 2 purple, 2 ecru, 2 pur¬ple and 1 ecru. Work 2 rows straight.
Fourteenth Row: 1 ecru, 3 purple in 2 purple, 2 ecru, 3 purple in 2 purple, 2 ecru, 4 purple in 3 purple, 2 ecru, 3 purple in 2 purple, 2 ecru, 3 pur¬ple in 2 purple and 1 ecru. Next
1 row straight; 1 row increasing 1 st in centre of each purple section ; 1 row straight; 1 row increasing 1 st in centre purple section only and repeat from * until there are 37 s c in centre purple section and 19 s c in narrow purple sections. From now on the bag is worked with¬out increasing width of row but decreasing purple sections as follows: 2 ecru in 2 sts, 17 purple, 4 ecru in 4 sts, 17 purple, 4 ecru in 4 sts, 35 purple, 4 ecru in 4 sts, 17
purple, 4 ecru in 4 sts, 17 purple, 2 ecru and 1 row straight. Con¬tinue to decrease narrow purple sections 1 s c each side every other row and to decrease large purple section 1 st at each side every 4th row until there are 3 purple stitches left and fasten ecru silk. Skip 20 ecru s c and work 1 row straight, (continuing the 3 purple s c and skipping 20 s c at other end of row) ; 1 row straight; 1 row skipping 1 st at each end with 3 purple in 3 purple; 1 row straight with 1 purple; 1 row skipping 1 st at each end; 1 row straight; 1 row skipping 1 st at each end and with the last st purple; 13 rows of ecru s c decreasing 1 st at each end and fasten silk. To finish the upper edge of bag fasten ecru silk in 20th s c at one side, work s c up to last row, 1 sc in 1st sc,* skip 1,2s c, repeat from * across straight edge and work s c down other side. Work another piece to correspond with 1st side and crochet both to¬gether with ecru s c and purple s c across point.
Handle: with ecru ch 6, skip 2, * 4 s c, ch 2, turn and repeat from * until work measures 20 inches.
Tassel: wind purple silk around 5 inch card, tie at one end, insert large ball and tie again. Work s c over the top of tassel, ch 7, and fasten to smaller ball. (See directions for making balls of Bag No. 1123.) Fasten to lower part of bag by working 1 purple sl st in 1st purple s c on 1 point, ch 7, fasten to small ball, ch 7, 1 sl st in other point and fasten silk.

Bag No. 1127 (bag pictured on the right)
4 pieces Glossilla ribbon Art. 4480, pink No. 424; 4 of white No. 3; 4 of green No. 62; 4 of lavender
No. 322; 3 of black No. 1 ; 1 black chenille tassel; 1 white celluloid bag handle No. 4264; 1 Bucilla bone crochet hook size 3.
Centre: with lavender ch 13, skip 1, 12 s c, ch 1, turn, skip 1st s c and repeat from * until there are 24 rows. To form the point decrease 1 st at end of each row until 1 st is left and fasten ribbon.
First Row: working around centre with black fasten ribbon in ch of 1st row and work 1 s c over each s c on the long sides and around point. Always work 1 s c, ch 1 and 1 s c in the st at point and turn
work after each row.
Second Row: using white skip 1 s c, 22 s c, 2 s c in next s c, (increase 1 s c at this point every other row), 12 s c, 1 s c, c h 1, 1 s c in ch at point and reverse from * to be¬ginning. Continue with 2 rows of white; (decrease 1 s c at beginning and at end of each row for the rest of the bag) ; 1 row of black; 6 rows of pink; 4 rows of green; 1 row of black and 2 rows of white. Make another side to correspond and crochet both pieces together with black s c. Sew tassel to point, line with any color of silk desired and sew neatly to handle.
Cord: cut 8 strands each of lavender, white and green, braid them to¬gether, tie ends, slip through clasp and fasten by winding tightly with ribbon as illustrated.

Bag 1123 & 1119

Bag No. 1123
10 spools Glossilla crochet Art. 4500 navy No. 450; 6 spools Art. 4600 Ombree No. 1919; 1 large and 2 small ball moulds; Bucilla steel crochet hook size 8.
First Round: using blue ch 3, skip 2 chs from hook and 11 s c in 1st ch. Do not join.
Second Round: 2 blue s c in 1st stitch, * 1 gray s c in next s c, 2 blue s c in next s c and repeat from *.
Third Round : * 1 gray s c in 1 gray s c, 1 gray in next blue s c, 1 blue in same s c, 1 blue in next s c and re¬peat from * always working 1st gray s c in 1st gray s c of previous round and last gray and first blue
s c in 1st blue s c of previous round.
Fourth Round : * 3 gray, 2 blue and re¬peat from *. For 12 succeeding rounds increase 1 gray s c at end of each gray section until there are 15 gray s c.
Seventeenth Round : * 1 blue s c in same st, 2 s c in 2 blue s c, 1 blue in 1 gray, 14 gray in 14 gray and repeat from *.
Eighteenth Round: * 1 blue in last gray st, 5 blue in 5 s c, 13 gray in 13 gray and repeat from *.
Nineteenth Round: * 1 blue in last gray st, 8 blue in 7 sts, 12 gray in 12 gray and repeat from *.
Twentieth Round: * 1 blue in last gray, 4 blue, 1 gray, 5 blue, 11 gray and repeat from *.
Twenty-First Round: * 1 blue in last st, 12 blue, 10 gray and repeat from *.
Twenty-Second Round : * 1 blue in same st, 3 blue in 3 blue, 1 gray, 5 blue, 1 gray, 4 blue, 9 gray and repeat from *.
Twenty-Third Round: * 1 blue in same st, 16 blue, 8 gray and repeat from *.
Twenty-Fourth Round: * 1 blue in same st, 2 blue, 1 gray, 5 blue, 1 gray, 5 blue, 1 gray, 3 blue, 7 gray and repeat from *.
Twenty-Fifth Round: * 1 blue in same st, 20 blue, 6 gray and repeat from *.
Twenty-Sixth Round: * 1 blue in same st, 1 blue in next st, 1 gray, 5 blue, 1 gray, 5 blue, 1 gray, 5 blue, 1 gray, 2 blue, 5 gray and repeat from *.
Twenty-Seventh Round : * 1 blue in same st, 24 blue, 4 gray and repeat from *.
Twenty-Eighth Round : * 1 blue in same st, 6 blue, 1 gray, 5 blue, 1 gray, 5 blue, 1 gray, 7 blue and repeat from *. There is no more increasing.
Twenty-Ninth Round : * 28 blue in 28 s c, 2 gray and repeat from *.
Thirtieth Round : * 4 blue, 1 gray, 5 blue, 1 gray, 5 blue, 1 gray, 5 blue, 1 gray, 6 blue, 1 gray and repeat from *.
Thirty-First Round: drop gray silk and work 1 round of s c.
Thirty-Second Round: 1 blue, * 1 gray, 5 blue and repeat from *. Work¬ing over unused strand crochet ac¬cording to illustration until there are 4/ inches above star points and finish with 1 round of blue s c and fasten silk.

Top of Bag, First Round : using gray * 1 s c, ch 5, skip 2, repeat from and join each round.
Second Round: sl st to 3rd ch of loop, ch 6, * 1 s c in next loop, ch 5 and repeat from *. Repeat 2nd round 12 times.
Final Round: * 1 s c in loop, ch 1, 1 p, ch 1 and repeat from *.
Cords: using blue ch 3, draw a loop through 1st ch, * thread over and through 1, thread over and through 2, draw a loop through ch on left side and repeat from for 18 inches.
Small Ball: using gray ch 3, skip 2, 5 s c, (do not join), 2 s c in each s c, 1 round of 1 s c in each s c, 4 rounds of 18 s c, place mould, de¬crease, close, ch 5 and fasten 1 ball to each cord.
Large Ball: repeat directions given for small ball but increase to 30 s c, close, ch 5 and fasten to end of bag. Work a row of ch sts 5 yards long of gray, wind ch over a 3 inch card, press and fasten to ball.

Bag No. 1119
3 spools Glossilla crochet Art. 4500 green No. 246; 5 spools Art. 4600 Ombree No. 1919; 13 moulds size 2 ; 8 brass rings / inch in diame¬ter; /yard 2/ inch green ribbon; Bucilla steel crochet hook size 8.
First Round: with green ch 104, join to form a ring, ch 1 and 1 s c in each ch. Do not join rounds.
Second Round : using green and om¬bree * 4 green s c, 4 ombree s c and repeat from * for 4 rounds.
Sixth to Ninth Rounds: * 4 ombree s c over 4 green s c, 4 green s c over 4 ombree s c and repeat from *. The
next 3 rounds have the colors green over green and ombree over om¬bree. Continue reversing until work is 14 squares deep.
Final Round : * 4 ombree s c, 3 p, 1 sl st in last s c and repeat from *. Sew together lower opening.
Ball: using ombree ch 3, 5 s c in 1st ch, (do not join), 2 s c in each s c, 1 round of 1 s c in each s c, 3 rounds of 14 s c, insert mould, close ball, ch 5 and join to lower end of bag.
Cords: ch 3, draw a loop through 1st ch, * thread over and through 1, thread over and through 2, draw a loop through ch on left side and repeat from * for desired length. Make 2 balls for each cord. Trim the top with ribbon and run the cords through rings sewn to the inside of bag.

Childs Bag 1120

Child's Bag No. 1120
11 spools Glossilla crochet Art. 4500 ecru; 1 spool green No. 272; 2 spools black; 1 spool red No. 46; 1 spool yellow No. 21; Bucilla steel crochet hook size 8.
Pattern Band: this band is made in two sections as shown in chart and then seamed together before the upper section of bag is worked.
First Row: with ecru ch 73, turn; skip 2, * 71 s c, ch 2, turn and repeat from * for the plain rows ,as shown on chart. Continue accord¬ing to chart always working over unused strands.
First Round of Upper Section : * 1 d c, ch 2, skip 1 and repeat from * join¬ing each round.
Second Round : ch 5, * 1 d c in next d c, ch 2 and repeat from *. Repeat 2nd round until there are 21 rounds of open mesh.
Edge: *ch 5, 1 d c in next d c, ch 7, 1 d c through the top of last d c, keep 2 loops on hook, thread over hook, skip 2 chs, draw a loop through next d c, thread over and through 2, thread over and through 2 s c in next sp and repeat from *. 3, ch 5, 1 sl st in next d c, sl st to Cords: ch 3, draw a loop through 1st next d c and repeat from *. ch, * thread over and through 1,
Final Round: * 2 s c, 1 p, 2 s c in 1st sp, thread over and through 2, draw a 2 s c, 1 p, 2 s c, 1 p, 2 s c in sp at loop through ch on left side and point, 2 s c, 1 p, 2 s c in next sp,repeat from * for desired length.

∎Black \Red .Green x Yellow

Bag 1122 & 1121

Bag No. 1122
12 spools Glossilla crochet at. 4500, navy No. 450; 5 spools old gold No. 484; 3 brass rings ¾ of an inch in diameter; 18 button moulds 3/8 of an inch in diameter; Bucilla steel crochet hook size 8.

PointA: using blue ch 3, 1 sc in 1st ch, ch 2 for 1 sc turn; 1 sc in 1st sc, 2 sc in next st, ch 2 turn; 3 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in last st, ch 2, turn; 5 sc nad 2 sc in last st. Repeat in this manner increasing 1 st at beginning and end of each row until there are 14 sts. Then continue according to chart using the old gold for design and following the general directions for color-changing. When line B is reached, discontinue increasing and work straight until bag is 7 stars high as shown in illustration. Make 3 more pieces in same manner and crochet together with blue sc.
Top of Bag, first Round:using blue work *2 tr c , ch 2, skip 2 and repeat from *.
Second Round: *3 tr c between 2 tr c, ch 1 and repeat from *.
Third Round: *2 dc, 1 p, 2 dc in 2nd tr c, skip tr c and 1 ch and repeat from *.
Tassel: with blue work sc over brass rings fastened together two and two and then three to point of bag. With fold ch 3, 5 sc in 1st ch, *1 round of 12 sc, 2 rounds of 16 sc insert mould and close by working each 2 sc together, ch 10, skip 2 sc, 5 sc in next ch, repeat from * until there are 3 moulds on 1 string, ch 12 and fasten to point of bag. Work 5 more strings of 3 moulds.
Cords: with gold make two cords, each 18 inches long of ch sts with sc worked on both sides of ch.

Bag No. 1121
11 spools Glossilla crochet Art. 4500 violet No. 328; 1 spool blue No. 110; 1 spool dark blue No. 112; 1 spool green No. 264; 1 spool dark green No. 268; 1 spool pink No. 424; 1 spool rose No. 428; Bucilla steel crochet hook size 8
First Round: using violet ch 30, skip 1, 28 sc in 28 chs, 3 sc in next ch, 28 sc on other side of chs, 3 sc in next ch, do not join, 1 sc in each sc increasing 2 sc at each end until there are 124 sc. Work 1 sc in each sc until the work measures 2 ½ inches. This brings the work to the 1st pattern round as shown on chart. Follow chart and then crochet 1 inch of violet sc increasing 4 sc in the 1st round.
Edge, First round: *1 sc, ch 7, skip 3 and repeat from *.
Second Round: 1 sc in loop, *ch 7, 1 sc in next loop and repeat from *.
Third Round: 1 sc in loop, *ch 2, 7n tr c in 3rd ch of next loop, ch 2, 1 sc in next loop and repeat from *.
Final Round: 1 sc in 1st tr c, *ch 1, 1 p, ch 1 , skip 1 tr c, 1 sc in next tr c, repeat from * twice, ch 1 and repeat from beginning of round.
Cords: with violet ch 3, draw a loop through 1st ch, * thread over and through 1, thread over and through 2, draw a loop through ch on left side and repeat from * for desired length.

Opera Bag

Materials required

2 large balls "Glossilla Crochet"; 1 Star crochet hook No. 3 ;1 amber crochet hook, No. 7.
The Rose is made first.
Chain 6 and join in a ring. Use Star hook.
Second round: chain 5, * 1 d. c. in the ring, ch. 2 and repeat from
4 times, join to third chain of the chain 5 at the beginning of the round, with a slip stitch, thus forming six spaces.
Third round: turn, 1 s. c., 6 d. c., 1 s. c., all in the first space, repeat in each space of round, chain 3, turn work and catch around the first spoke of second round, ,with a slip stitch.
Fourth round: chain 6, catch around next spoke and repeat all around. Turn work.
Fifth round: 1 s. c., 9 d. c., 1 s. c., in first space and repeat all around, chain 3 and turn.
Sixth round: catch around first spoke of fourth round with a slip stitch, ch. 8 and catch around next spoke and repeat all around. Turn work.
Seventh round: 1 s. c., 13 d. c., 1 s. c. in each space all around, ch. 3 and turn.
Eighth round: catch around first spoke, ch. 10, catch around next
spoke and repeat all around. Turn work.
Ninth round: 1 s. c., 15 d. c., 1 s. c.. in each space, ch. 3, turn.
Tenth round: catch around first spoke of eighth round, ch. 12, and
catch around next spoke and repeat all around. Turn work.
Eleventh round: 1 s. c, 17 d. c., 1 s. c. in each space. This completes
the rose.
Twelfth round: chain 7, catch back in second ch. to form a picot, ch. 8, catch back in 3rd ch., ch. 2, thus forming one set of picots, catch with s. c. in sixth stitch of petal. Make another set of picots, as directed, and catch in twelfth stitch of petal. Continue in this way, making a set of picots and catching in the sixth and twelfth stitches of each petal all around.
Thirteenth round: 1 set of picots, catch in center between the 2 picots of preceding round, chain 8 snugly, catch in next center, turn the work and in the chain 8 just made, make 16 s. c., ch. 3 and turn, 15 d. c. on the 16 s. c. just made, ch. 3 and catch down in same space, * 1 set of picots, catch in center between next two picots, 1 set of picots, catch in next center, chain 8 snugly, catch in next center, turn, 16 s. c., chain 3 and turn, 15 d. c., ch. 3, catch down as before and repeat from * twice.
Fourteenth round: 1 set of picots, catch in center between the 2 picots of preceding round and continue as the twelfth round was made, ex¬cepting that the picots are caught in the third, middle and thirteenth stitches of petals. (Three times.)
Repeat the thirteenth and fourteenth rounds until there are five petals in each corner. There will be more picots between the petals on each round. Fasten off.
Make second side like first.
Join the two sides with a single row of picots, caught alternately in the centers of picots of the two sides.
Border around the top.
First round: make 1 s. c. in center of some picot space, * ch. 6 and catch in center of next space with 1 s. c. and repeat from * all around. Join. The ribbon holes are next to be made; ch. 5, * 1 d. C., ch. 2, skip 2 chs. and repeat all around.
Make another round of ribbon holes, putting the d. c. in the spaces of preceding round.
Then a round of picots caught down in alternate spaces. Fasten off. Then make a round as the first round of top was made, working from the wrong side. Turn; make 7 s. C. in chain just made, 1 s. c. in center and repeat all around. Turn; ch. 8 and catch down in the s. c. of previous round and repeat all around.
Turn: * 5 s. c. in chain just made, ch. 3 and catch back to form picot, 5 s. c. in chain, 1 s. c. in center and repeat from * all around.
Balls: chain 4 and join in a ring. Make 8 s. c. in the ring. Do not join, as the balls are worked around and around, both threads of stitch being taken up.
Second round: put 2 s. c. in each stitch of preceding round.
Third round: 2 s. c. in first stitch, 1 s. c. in each of the next 3 stitches and repeat all around; 20 stitches in all.
Make six more rounds of 20 s. c., then two rounds, skipping every third stitch on each round. Fill with cotton and work around, skipping every other stitch until one remains, chain 13 and fasten off. Make 17 more balls in the same manner. Join them into pairs by catching the third stitch of the chain of second ball through the chain of the first ball, then finish chain and fasten off. Fasten two balls on each corner of bag, two in center of lower edge, two in each rose and two on each of the slip balls on cordeliere.
Make cordeliere as follows: make a chain five yards long, or longer if an extra length cordeliere is desired. Turn, skip the chain next to the needle and make 1 s. c. in each succeeding ch. until the work measures 16 in.; then, without breaking thread, make another chain, long enough to reach within 16 in. of the beginning of first chain made. Make 1 s. c. in each chain to the end, thus forming two ends to be run through the ribbon holes, with two long chains between. Now, with amber needle, crochet a chain, beginning at the end of one s. c. strip and ending at the other s. c. strip, using the two lengths of chain as one thread.

Slip balls: chain 6 and join in a ring, 12 s. c. in the ring.
Second round: 2 s. c. in each stitch. Make six more rounds of 24 s. c., followed by 2 rounds, skipping every third stitch. Fasten off, but leave a long end of thread. Slip ball on cordeliere, and after running the end of cord through the ribbon holes and fastening it firmly, slip ball over the joining, fill with cotton and draw up with the thread left. Fasten the two balls to the slip ball.

Russian Crochet Bag

RUSSIAN BAG. Materials required:

1 skein Perle cotton, No. 3; 1 Star crochet hook, No. 2; 1 bone ring, 2 inches in diameter; 4 bone rings, ; 3/4 inch in diameter.

CHAIN 116 and turn. One double crochet stitch (1 d. c.) in eighth ch. from the needle, * ch. 2, skip 2, 1 d. c. in next and repeat from * to the end of foundation ch., thus making 37 spaces, ch. 5 and turn.
Second row: * I d. c.. on d. c., 2 d. c. in space, repeat twice from making 9 d. c. in the 3 spaces, ch. 2, skip one space and repeat from ending row with 1 d. c., ch. 5 and turn.
Third row: * 1 d. c. on each of the first 4 d. c., taking up both threads of stitch of preceding row, 1 long treble cluster around the post of the fifth stitch of previous row, made as follows: thread over twice, pick up a loop, over and through 2, over and through 2, over and pick up another loop around same stitch, over and through 2, over and pick up a third loop around same stitch (5 loops on needle)-over and through 2 and repeat from until one loop remains. No further description of this cluster will be given. 1 d. c. on each of the last four stitches of block, ch. 2 and repeat from * to end of row, ch. 5 and turn.
Fourth row: * 9 d. c. on 9 stitches of last row, ch. 2 and repeat from *, ch. 5 and turn.
Fifth row: * 1 d. c. on first d. c., oh. 2, skip 2, 1 d. C., ch. 2, skip 2, 1 d. c., ch. 2, skip 1, 1 d. c. in last d. c. of block, ch. 2 and repeat from * in each block to end of row, forming 37 spaces in the row, ch. 5 and turn.
Sixth row: d. c. on first d. c., * ch. 5, thread over needle twice, pick up a loop in next d. c., thread over and through 2, twice, keeping 2 loops on needle, thread over and pick up a loop in next d. c., thread over and through 2, three times. Repeat from * 4 times, ch. 5, 1 d. c. on next d. c., ch. 2, make three blocks as border was made, then make second part of row like first, reversing the directions, ending row with ch. 2, 1 d. c. on turning ch., turn.
Seventh row: a shell of 4 d. c. on second d.c. 1 s. c. in center of 5 chs., a shell on crossed treble, s. c. in next ch., ch. 5, s. c. in next space, ch. 5, another s. c. in same place for picot, ch. 5, picot as before in next space, ch. 5, s. c. in next space, shell on treble, s. c. in next space, ch. 2, d. c. on d. c., ch. 2, repeat the three blocks, as before, then make second part of row, reversing pattern, 1 s. c. in last d. c., ch. 3 and turn.
Eighth row: 3 d. C. in s. C. below, s. c. in center of shell, ch. 5, s. c. in center of next shell, a shell in s. c. below, s. c. in center of next ch., ch. 5, picot in next space, ch. 5, s. c. in next space, a shell in s. c. below, s. c. in center of shell, ch. 5, s. c. on ch., ch. 3, d. C. On d. c., ch. 2, repeat block pattern, reverse pattern, ch. 3 and turn.
Ninth row: shell in first d. c., s. c. in next, ch. 5, picot in next space, ch. 5, s. c. in shell, shell in s. c. below, s. c. in next space, ch. 5, s. c. in next space, shell in s. c., s. c. in shell, ch. 5, s. c. in next space, ch. 3, d. c. on d. c.; repeat blocks, reverse, ch. 3 and turn.
Tenth row: shell in first d. c., s. c. in center of shell, ch. 5, picot in next space, ch. 5, picot in next, ch. 5, s. c. in shell, shell in s. c., s. c. in space, shell in s. c. below, ch. 5, picot in next space, ch. 5, d. c. on d. c., make three blocks, reverse, then ch. 3 and turn.
Eleventh row: shell in first d. c., s. c. in center of shell, * ch. 5, picot in next space, repeat from * twice, ch. 5, s. c. in shell, shell in s. c. below, s. c. in next space, ch. 5, picot in next space, ch. 5, s. c. in next space, ch. 3, d. c. on d. c.; make three blocks, reverse and turn. This completes one half of the bag.
Twelfth row: slip stitch to center of shell, shell in s. c. below, * ch. 5, picot in next space, repeat from *, ch. 5, s. c. in next space, shell in s. c. below, s. c. in center of shell, shell in next s. c., s. c. in next space, ch. 5, picot in next space, ch. 5, d. c. On d. c.; make the three blocks, reverse, ending row with s. c. in center of shell, turn.
Thirteenth row: slip stitch to center of shell, shell in s. c. below, s. C. in next space, ch. 5, picot in next space, ch. 5, s. c. in next space, shell in s. c. below, s. c. in shell, ch. 5, s. c. in next shell, shell in s. c. below, s. c. in next space, ch. 5, s. c. in next, ch. 3, d. c. on d. c.; make spaces across blocks, reverse, ending row with s. c. in center of shell, turn.
Fourteenth row: slip stitch to center of shell, shell in s. c. below, s. c. in next space, ch. 5, s. c. in next space, shell in s. c. below, s. c. on shell, ch. 5, picot, ch. 5, s. c. in next space, shell in s. c. below, s. c. in next space, ch. 5, d. c. on d. c.; make three blocks, reverse, ending row with s. c. in center of shell, turn.
Fifteenth row: slip stitch to center of shell, shell in s. c. below, s. c. in space, shell in s. c. below, s. c. in space, * ch. 5, picot in space, repeat from * ch. 5, s. c. in shell, shell in s. c. below, s. c. in space, ch. 3, d. c. on d. c.; make three blocks, reverse, ending row with s. c. in center of shell, turn.
Sixteenth row: ch. 5, d. c. in center of shell, * ch. 2, d. c. in next shell, ch. 2, another d. c. in same place, repeat from * four times, ch. 2, d. c. on d. c.; make blocks, reverse, ending with ch. 2 and 1 d. c. in last stitch, turn.
Repeat the first, second, third, fourth and fifth rows for second border. Fasten off.
Work across point, as follows: fasten thread in left hand corner of fifth row with 1 s. c. stitch, ch. 8, slip stitch in s. c. at the end of seventh row, 6 s. c. in the loop of ch. 8 just made, ch. 8, slip stitch in d. c. of ninth row, 6 s. c. in loop, as before, ch. 8, slip stitch in end of tenth row, 6 s. c. in loop, ch. 8, catch in end of eleventh row, 6 s. c. in loop, ch. 8 and catch in same row, 6 s. c. in loop, then make second side of point to match first, ending with ch. 8 and catching in the end of sixteenth row. In this ch. loop, make 3 s. c., ch. 3 and catch back to form a picot, 3 more s. c. in same loop, * 1 s. c. in next loop, picot, 3 s. c. in same loop and repeat from * six times, adding an extra picot and 3 s. c. stitches in the center loop on point. In the final loop make 3 s. C., picot, 3 s. C. In the small spaces all around work, as follows: * 3 s. c. in first space, I S. C., picot, 2 s. c. all in next space, and repeat from *. In the corner spaces make 3 s. c., picot, 3 s. C. Work second point when reached, as first was made. Cover small rings, as follows: * 2 s. C. in ring, ch. 3 and catch back for a picot and repeat from * eleven times, join and fasten to bag, as illustrated.

Cord: ch. 28o and turn. Make a slip stitch in each ch. for entire length. Cover large ring with s. c. Draw cord through small rings, as illustrated and fasten ends to large ring.

Line bag with selected material and put a pocket on one side of lining. Stiffen hem and center of bag with featherbone.

Venetian Bag

Materials required:
2 balls Macrame cord, No. 6; 1 Star crochet hook, No. 2.
CHAIN 4 and join in a ring. Make 6 single crochet stitches (6 s. c.) in the ring. Do not join.
Make three rounds as follows: * 2 s. c. in first stitch, 1 s. c. in next stitch and repeat from *. Join, with a slip stitch, at the end of the fourth round.
Fifth round: ch. 5, * skip 1 ch., 1 double crochet stitch (see page 4) in next ch., ch. 1, 1 d. c. in next ch., ch. 1 and repeat from * all around; 20 d. c. in the round, join.
Sixth round: * 1 s. c. in each of the first 3 stitches, taking up the back thread only, 2 s. c. in next stitch and repeat from * all around. Do not fasten off.
Petals: take the second ball of cord and make 16 petals as follows: chain 14, 1 slip stitch (1 s. s.) in each of the two first stitches, 1 s. c. in each of the next two stitches, 6 d. c., 2 s. c., 3 s. s. in end stitch, turn and work on the other side of ch., 2 s. c., 6 d. c., 2 s. c., 2 s. c. Fasten off, leaving end long enough to join to center.
Seventh round: 6 s. c. around center, * 2 slip stitches on petal, s. c. all around petal, putting 2 s. c. in every fourth stitch and 3 s. c. in top stitch of petal, 2 s. s. on the other side of petal, then 5 s. c. on center and repeat from * all around. Fasten off.
Chain 78 and join. On the chain make a round of s. c., putting 2 s. c. in every fourth stitch. Join. Chain 5, skip 1 stitch, 1 d. c. in the next stitch, * ch. 2, skip 1, 1 d. c. and repeat from *.
Second row : chain 5 and turn, 1 d. c. in first d. c., * ch. 2, 1 d. c. in next d. c. and repeat from *, putting final d. c. in third ch. of turning chain of preceding row. (4 spaces.)
Repeat second row twice, thus forming one more space on each row.
Fifth row: ch. 3, 1 d. c. in second d. c., * ch. 2, 1 d. c. in next d. c. and repeat from * three times, ch. 3, catch with slip stitch in third ch. of turning ch. and fasten off.
Skip five chains on the ring and make another section in the same way. Continue until 8 sections, in all, have been made.
Lay center on ring and pin petals between sections, as illustrated. Fasten back of petal to second square of section, with 1 s. c., * 2 s. c., ch. 3 and catch back for a picot, 1 s. c. all in the next square and repeat from * in each square of section until the second square is reached; there make 1 s. c., join the square and petal with 1 s. c., ch. 4, carry back of petal and catch petal and second square as before. Continue in this way around each of the eight sections and at the end fasten off.
Fasten cord in middle of one of the sections, ch. 24, 1 s. c. in center of next section, ch. 28, 1 s. c. in next, ch. 41, 1 s. c. in next, ch. 28, 1 s. c., ch. 24, 1 s. c., ch. 28, 1 treble crochet stitch (see page 4) taken just before the fourth picot on top of next section, another tr. c. between the fourth and fifth picots, ch. 14, 1 tr. c. taken in next section between first and second picots, another tr. c. after second picot, ch. 28 and join.
Final round: ch. 3 to count as 1 d. c. and make 1 d. c. in each of the first six chains. On this round after every fourth d. c. ch. 3 and catch back for a picot. No further mention will be made of this picot. Widen by putting 2 d. c. in the eighth stitch and in every fourth stitch of round, excepting that the seven stitches on each side of the s. c. caught down in the sections are to be made plain. Do not widen at all in the chain of 14 which is in the center of top of bag.
Joining figure: ch. 3 and join, 1 s. c. in the ring, * ch. 5 and catch back in second ch. for picot, ch. 2, catch in picot of section, as illustrated, ch. 5 and catch back for picot, ch. 2, 2 s. c. in the ring and repeat from * three times.
Make large joining figure at bottom of bag, with a round of 8 s. c. in the ring before beginning the joining picots; then make five joining picots instead of four.
Strap: ch. 14, * 1 s. c. in each of the three first stitches, ch. 3 for a picot and repeat from * to end of foundation, ch. 14 for button loop and make second side like first.
Buttons: ch. 3 and join, 8 s. c. in the ring; 8 bean stitches on next round (see below). Next make a round of 16 s. c., followed by a round of s. c., skipping every other stitch. Fasten off, leaving cord long enough to pull through center of button and sew in place.
Make second side of bag like first.
Cord: ch. 1, pick up a loop in same ch., thread over and through the 2 loops on needle. * Pick up a loop in second ch., thread over and through the two loops and repeat in each chain for the length desired.
Make fringe as illustrated, for the braided parts using three strands of cord; 2 strands for the rest.

Coffee Bean Stitch:
Make a ch, as long as is needed.
First Row: pull loop on needle up long (about half an inch), thread over needle and in first ch, stitch, pulling this loop up as long as the first one. Thread over needle and through 3 stitches, ch 1. *Skip next ch on foundation. Thread over needle and through the next ch, thread over needle and through same ch. Thread over needle and through all the loops on needle. Ch 1 Repeat from * for length of row.
Second Row: pull loop on needle up long and ch 1 In this way a half bead is formed to keep the edge even. Continue across row, making a bean in each space and at the very end make another half bean.
Third row: make 1 bean in each space, counting the loop on needle as first loop of first bean.
Repeat second and third rows until the work is the correct size.

Irish Crochet Opera Bag

Materials required:
1 large skein Perle Cotton, No. 5; 1 Star crochet hook,
No. 2

THE Rose is made first.
Chain 6 and join in a ring.
Second round: chain 5, * 1 d. c. in the ring, ch. 2 and repeat from * 4 times; join to third chain of the chain 5 at beginning of the round, with a slip stitch, thus forming six spaces.
Third round: turn, 1 s. c., 6 d. c., 1 s. c., all in the first space, repeat in each space of round, chain 3, turn work and catch around first spoke of second round with a slip stitch.
Fourth round: chain 6, catch around next spoke and repeat all around. Turn.
Fifth round: 1 s. c., 9 d. c., 1 s. c. in first space and repeat all around, chain 3 and turn.
Sixth round: catch around first spoke of fourth round with a slip stitch, ch. 8 and catch around next spoke and repeat all around, turn work.
Seventh round: 1 s. c., 13 d. c., 1 s. c. in each space all around, ch. 3 and turn.
Eighth round: catch around first spoke, ch. 10, catch around next spoke and repeat all around. Turn.
Ninth round: 1 s. c., 15 d. c., 1 s. c. in each space. This completes the rose.
Tenth round: chain 7, catch hack in second ch. to form picot, ch. 8, catch back in third ch., chain 2, thus forming one set of picots, catch with slip st. in fifth stitch of petal. Make another set of picots, as directed, and catch in tenth st. of petal. Continue in this way making a set of picots and catching in the fifth and tenth stitches of each petal all around.
Eleventh round: 1 set of picots, catch in center between the 2 picots of preceding round, chain 8, catch in next center, turn the work and in the chain 8 just made, make 16 s. c., ch. 3 and turn, 15 d. c. on the i6 s. c. just made, ch. 3 and catch down before the next picot of preceding round. * 1 set of picots, catch in center between next two picots, r set of picots, catch in next center, chain 8, catch in next center, turn, 16 s. c., chain 3 and turn, 15 d. c., ch. 3, catch down as before and repeat from * twice.
Twelfth round: 1 set of picots, catch in center between the 2 picots of preceding round, and continue as tenth round was made, excepting that the picots are caught in the third, middle and thirteenth stitches of petals. (Three times.)
Repeat the eleventh and twelfth rounds until there are four petals on each corner. There will be more picots between the petals on each round. Fasten off.
Make second side like first.
Join the two sides with a single row of picots, caught alternately in the centers of picots of the two sides.
Border around the top.
First round: make 1 s. c. in center of some picot space, * ch. 6 and catch in center of next space with 1 s. c. and repeat from * all around. Join. The ribbon holes are next to be made; ch. 5, * 1 d. c., ch. 2, skip 2 chs., and repeat all around.
Make another round of ribbon holes, putting the d. c. in the spaces of preceding round.
Then a round of picots caught down in alternate spaces. Fasten off. Then make a round as the first round of top was made, working from the wrong side. Turn; make 7 s. c. in chain just made, 1 s. c. in center and repeat all around. Turn: ch. 8 and catch down in the s. c. of previous round and repeat all around.
Turn: * 5 s. c. in chain just made, ch. 3 and catch back to form picot, 5 s. c. in chain, 1 s. c. in center, and repeat from * all around.
Balls: chain 4 and join in a ring. Make 8 s. c. in the ring. Do not join as the balls arc worked around and around, both threads of stitch being taken up.
Next round: put 2 s. c. in each stitch of preceding round. Make six more rounds of 16 s. c., then two rounds, skipping every third stitch on each round. Fill with cotton and make a final round, skipping every other stitch. Draw up with 1 s. c.; chain 10 and fasten off. Make fifteen more balls in same manner. Fasten two balls on each corner of bag, two in center of lower edge, two in center of each rose and one in each bow of the ribbons that are used for drawing up.

Shamrock and Rose Bag

Materials required:

1 large skein Perle Cotton, No. 5; z Star crochet hook, No. 2%; 1 bone or amber crochet hook, No. 7.

USING the steel hook * chain 12 and join in a ring, repeat twice from * to form the foundation for the shamrock. In the first ring made now put 1 s. c., 25 d. c., 1 s. c. and repeat in each ring.
Second round: beginning again with the first ring, make 1 s. c. in each stitch all around the three leaves of the shamrock. Fasten off and draw the center of shamrock up with the end of thread.
First picot round: make 1 s. c. in the sixth stitch of one of the leaves, ch. 7, catch back in second chain to form picot, ch. 8, catch back in third chain to form another picot, ch. 2, thus forming one set of picots, skip 4 stitches on leaf, catch with s. c. in next stitch. Make another set of picots, as directed, skip 4 stitches and catch down with s. c. Continue in this way making a set of picots and catching down until 4 s. c. stitches have been caught down in each of the first two leaves. On the third leaf of the shamrock fewer stitches must be skipped, so that an extra set of picots can be made and caught down, five times in all.
Second picot round: 1 set of picots, catch, in center between the 2 picots of preceding round, chain 8 snugly, catch in next center, turn the work and in the chain 8 just made, make i6 s. c., ch. 3 and turn, 15 d. c. on the 16 s. c. just made, ch. 3 and catch down in same space. * 1 set of picots, catch in center between next two picots, 1 set of picots, catch in next center, chain 8 snugly, catch in next center, turn, 16 s. c., chain 3 and turn, 15 d. c., ch. 3, catch down as before and repeat from * twice.
Third round: 1 set of picots, catch in center between the 2 picots of preceding round and continue as the twelfth round was made, excepting that the picots are caught in the third, middle and thirteenth stitches of petals. (Three times.)
Repeat the second and third rounds until there are four petals in each corner. There will be more picots between the petals on each round. Fasten off. This completes the back of the bag.
The front of the bag consists of four motifs joined together. Make two of them with the shamrock in the center, following the directions given for the hack of bag, up to and including third round of picots; then fasten off.

Rose motif: chain 6 and join in a ring.
Second round: chain 5, * 1 d. c. in the ring, ch. 2 and repeat from 4 times; join to third chain of the chain 5 at beginning of the round, with a slip stitch, thus forming six spaces.
Third round: turn, I s. c., 4 d. c., 1 s. c., all in the first space, repeat in each space of round, chain 3, turn work and catch around first spoke of second round with a slip stitch.
Fourth round: chain 5, catch around next spoke and repeat all around. Turn.
Fifth round: 1 s. c., 8 d. c., 1 s. c., in first space and repeat all around, chain 3 and turn.
Sixth round: catch around first spoke of fourth round with a slip
stitch, ch. 7 and catch around next spoke and repeat all around, turn work.
Seventh round: 1 s. c., 12 d. c., 1 s. c. in each space all around.
Eighth round: make sets of picots as before, catching in fourth and tenth stitches of each petal of rose. Next make two rounds as directed for the second and third picot rounds of shamrock motif and fasten off.
Join the motifs with a single row of picots caught alternately in the centers of picots of the two motifs. Join the front and back of bag in same manner.
Border around the top.
First round: make 1 s. c. in center of some picot space, * ch. 6 and catch in center of next space with 1 s. c. and repeat from * all around. Join. The ribbon holes are next to be made; ch. 5, * 1 d. c., ch. 2, skip 2 chs. and repeat all around.
Make another round of ribbon holes, putting the d. c. in the spaces of preceding round.
Then a round of picots caught down in alternate spaces. Fasten off. Then make a round as the first round of top was made, working from the wrong side. Turn: make 7 s. c. in chain just made, 1 s. c. in s. c. and repeat all around. Turn; ch. 8 and catch down in the s. c. of previous round and repeat all around.
Turn: * 5 s. c. in chain just made, ch. 3 and catch back to form picot, 5 s. c. in chain, 1 s. c. in s. c. and repeat from * all around.
Balls: chain 4 and join in a ring. Make 8 s. c. in the ring. Do not join, as the balls are worked around and around, both threads of the stitch being taken up.
Next round: put 2 s. c. in each stitch of preceding round. Make four more rounds of 16 s. c., then two rounds skipping every third stitch on each round. Fill with cotton and make a final round skipping every other stitch. Draw up with 1 s. c., chain 10 and fasten off. Make seventeen more balls in same manner. Fasten two balls on each corner of bag, two in center of lower edge, two in center of each rose and two on each of the slip balls on cordeliere. Join them into pairs by catching the third stitch of the chain of second ball through the chain of the first ball, then finish chain and fasten off.
Make cordeliere as follows: make a chain five yards long, or longer if an extra length cordeliere is desired. Turn, skip the chain next to the needle and make 1 s. c. in each succeeding ch. until the work measures 16 in.; then, without breaking thread, make another chain, long enough to reach within i6 in. of the beginning of the first chain made. Make 1 s. c. in each chain to the end, thus forming two ends to be run through the ribbon holes, with two long chains between. Now, with No. 7 needle, crochet a chain beginning at the end of one s. c. strip and ending at the other s. c. strip, using the two lengths of chain as one thread.
Slip balls: chain 6 and join in a ring, 10 s. c. in the ring.
Second round: 2 s. c. in each stitch. Make five more rounds of 20 s.c. followed by 2 rounds skipping every third stitch. Fasten off, but leave a long end of thread. Slip ball on cordeliere, and after running the end of cord through the ribbon holes and fastening it firmly, slip ball over the joining, fill with cotton and draw up with thread left. Fasten the two balls to the slip ball.

Filet Handkerchief Bag

Materials required:
3 balls Cordonnet Special, No. 3; 1 Bone Ring; 1 Star crochet hook, No. 3

Chain 77: turn, make 1 double crochet stitch (1 d. c.), in the eighth chain from the needle, 1 d. c. in each of the next 3 chains, * ch. 2, skip 2 chains of foundation ch., 1 d. c. in the next and repeat from 19 times (20 spaces in all), then 1 d. c. in each of the next 3 chs., making 4 in all, ch. 2, skip 2, 1 d. c. in last ch.
Second row: turn, ch. 5, 1 d. c. in each of the group of 4 d. c. of pre¬ceding row, thus forming the border which continues the full length of bag on both sides; * ch. 2, 1 d. c. on next d. c. and repeat from * until there are 8 spaces in all, 2 d. c. in next space, 1 d. c. on d. c. until 13 d. c. stitches, in all, have been made. Make 8 spaces as before, then 4 d. c. in all for border, ch. 2, 1 d. c. in third stitch of 8 ch. made when turning for first row. No further mention will be made of the details of border.
Third row: border, 6 spaces, 10 d. c., as directed for the 13 d. c. of pre¬ceding row, ch. 3, 1 s. c. in seventh d. c. of second row, ch. 3, skip 2, to d. c., 6 spaces, border.
Fourth row: border, 5 spaces, 7 d. c. in all, ch. 3, skip 2, 1 s. c. in next
stitch, ch. 3, skip 2, 1 d. c., ch. 5, 1 d. c. on next d. c., ch. 3, skip 2, 1 s. c., ch. 3, skip 2, 7 d. c., 5 spaces, border.
Fifth row : border, 3 spaces, 7 d. c., * ch. 3, skip 2, 1 s.c., ch. 3, skip 2, 1 d. c., ch. 5, 1 d. c. on d. c., repeat from *, ch. 3, skip 2, 1 s. c., ch. 3, skip 2, 7 d. c., 3 spaces, border.
Sixth row: border, 3 spaces, 7 d. c., * ch. 5, 1 d. c. on d. c., ch. 3, skip 2, 1 s. c., ch. 3, skip 2, 1 d. c. on d. c.. Repeat from * ch. 5, 7 d. c. on 7 d. c., 3 spaces, border.
Repeat the fifth and sixth rows until there are eleven rows in all. This forms the turnover of the bag.
Twelfth row: border, 20 spaces, border. Repeat the twelfth row twelve times.
Twenty-fifth row: like second row.
Twenty-sixth row: border, 7 spaces, 7 d. c. in all, ch. 2, skip 2, 1 d. c., ch. 2, skip 2, 7 d. c., 7 spaces, border.
Twenty-seventh row: border, 6 spaces, * 7 d. c., ch. 2, skip 2. Repeat from * until there are three groups of 7 d. c. each, 6 spaces, border.
Twenty-eighth row: border, 5 spaces, 7 d. C., ch. 2, skip 2, 13 d. c., ch. 2, skip 2, 7 d. c., 5 spaces, border.
This completes one-half of the back of the bag. work back, making twenty-ninth row like twenty-seventh, etc., until pattern is complete, then twelve rows of 20 spaces each, as before. Do not break off thread.
First row of front : border, 20 spaces, border, catch with a slip stitch to corresponding row of the back, to join the front and back.
Second row: ch. 2 and catch to next row of back, turn, ch. 2, skip 2, 4 d. c. for border. Then make row as directed for first row. The bag is to be joined on each side as directed.
Third row: work as directed for second row of turnover.
Continue following directions as given for the turnover, repeating the
fifth and sixth rows until there are eighteen rows in all, for the front. Nineteenth row: like fourth.
Twentieth row: like third.
Twenty-first row: like second.
Next repeat the pattern as made on the back of the bag beginning with the twenty-sixth row: finish front with four rows of border, 20 spaces, border.
The cords for closing the bag are next to be made. Slipstitch to center of first space of front, ch. 50, draw through first space of the first row of spaces on the back. Fasten over the ring with 1 s. c., then ch. 50, draw through same space, 1 s. c. in space with beginning of ch. Slip stitch over 4 d. c., 1 s. c. in next space, ch. 50, fasten to ring and proceed as before.
Continue in this way, putting the chains in every other space and catch¬ing to ring with s. c. until the last space has been worked into, then ch. 50, fasten on the ring and cover the remaining space of ring with s. c. worked closely. Then ch. 50 and fasten to last space of front.
Balls: ch. 3 and join. Put 8 s. c. in the ring. Do not join as the balls are worked around and around.
Second row: 2 s. c. in each stitch of preceding row. Make four more rows of 16 stitches, then two rows skipping every third stitch. Fill with cotton and work around, skipping every other stitch until one remains. Ch. 3 and fasten off, leaving a long thread to sew ball in place. Make seven more balls in same manner. Line as desired and place a piece of feather bone in one of the hems at top of bag to hold it in place.

Chenille Pansy Bag

Materials required:
8 skeins (i8 yd.) Bear Brand Metal Chenille, No. 1; 3 cards Klondyke Crochet Gold; 1 Bear Brand Handbag cord, No. 2835; 10 Bone 1/2 in. rings; 1 Star steel crochet hook, No. 3.
Pansy: with gold thread chain 4 and join.
First round: ch. 3, 14 d. c. in the ring, join with slip stitch to top of ch. 3.
Second round: draw chenille through and with it * ch. 3, 2 d. c. in first stitch of previous round, 3 d. c. in each of the next two stitches, 2 d. c. in fourth, ch. 3, t s. c. in fifth and repeat from * twice to form three petals; chain 8 for stem and fasten off.
Third round: with gold thread, * 1 d. c. in the ch. 3, 2 d. c. in each of next 10 d. c., r d. c. in oh. 3, r s. c. caught down in d. c. of gold center. Repeat twice from *; then make s. c. on both sides of stem. Make two more pansies in the same way.
Leaves: ch. 9, skip first ch., 1 s. c. in next, 1 d. c. in each of the next 6 chs., 3 s. c. in last ch.; then 6 d. c., 1 s. c. down the other side. Fasten off. Make four more leaves in same way. With chenille join the centers of three of the leaves with a slip stitch, ch. 8, catch to center of another leaf, ch. 5, join next leaf, ch. 12 for stem and fasten off. With gold thread work around each leaf as follows: 1 s. c. in each of the first and last three stitches, 2 d. c. in each of the other stitches. Work around all the steams with s. c.
Cabochon: with chenille, chain 6 and join, ch. 3, make ii d. c. in ring and join.
Second round: draw gold thread through and make clusters as follows:ch. 4 thread over needle, pick up a loop in second ch., repeat from¬ seven times, thread over and through all the loops on needle, ch. 1 snugly, fasten with s. c. in second chain also, ch. 1, 1 s. c. and repeat from * 8 times, nine clusters in all.
Third round: with chenille make 9 clusters in same way excepting that only two loops are picked up to form a cluster.
Fourth round: with chenille and gold thread worked together, * ch. 12, fasten back in second ch., ch. 1, fasten with 1 s. c. between clusters and repeat from *.
Fifth round: with gold thread * ch. 8, 3 s. c. in top of loop, ch. 8, 1 s. c. on s. c. of last round and repeat from *.
Sixth round: slip stitch up to third ch. of gold loop, * 2 s. C., 10 d. c. into first half of loop, 3 d. c. on the 3 s. c., 10 d. C., 2 s. c. in the other half of loop and repeat from *.
Tack motifs on a piece of muslin 8% inches deep by 9% inches wide. The back of bag and filling in around motifs is of chenille crocheted in knot stitch. Make a loop a half inch long. Hold the knot between the thumb and forefinger and * through the loop pull another loop of the che¬nille, this time very short, since it is really the first loop of a s. c. Take up the second loop of the s. c. through the new long loop. Pull the chenille through the 2 loops on needle and the s. c. (or knot, as it is called) is finished. The present loop on the needle should be pulled up long and corresponds to the first loop made. When it is pulled up, hold the knot just made between the thumb and forefinger and repeat the directions from * until 21 knots have been made, including the one made for beginning.
Second row: turn and hold the double side of the loop toward the top. Make 1 s. c. through the double thread on the right side of fourth knot and another s. c. on the left side of knot; then 2 loops and 2 knots caught down on each side of the sixth knot. Continue in this way, catching down with s. c. on each side of every other knot.
Third row: make 3 loops and 3 knots to turn, catch down in last knot of second row (skipping the s. c. worked in first row), * then 2 loops and 2 knots catching down in next knot of second row. Repeat from * across row, a perfect square of 4 loops being formed every time the loops are caught down. 9 squares in the row, for the depth of the bag, (8 1/2 inches). Repeat the third row until there are ten rows, in all, when the width should be 9j inches for the back of the bag. Continue working up and down in this way for the front of bag, catching to the motifs when they are reached, and fastening off chenille only when absolutely necessary. Be careful to have nine squares for the last row, then join to the back.
Drops: ch. 3, with chenille and join. 6 s. c. in the ring. Do not join. Make 2 s. c. in each stitch for the second round and fasten off. Make 11 more drops. With gold thread make * 1 s. c. in center of first knot, catching also the corresponding knot on the back of bag to join across the bottom, ch. 8, catch with s. c. to drop, then put 2 s. c. in each stitch all around drop, 1 s. c. in each stitch of chain, ch. 3, 1 s. c. in knot below, ch. 3, fasten in upper knot, ch. 3, 2 s. c. in each stitch of drop, 1 s. c. in each stitch of ch. and repeat from * all across the bottom.
Border: 1 s. c. in the middle of some point, * ch. 4, 1 s. c. in next point and repeat from *.
Second round: * 2 s. c., ch. 4, and catch back into first ch. to form picot, 2 s. C., all in the first ch. loop of 4 of preceding round. Repeat from in each ch. loop all around.
Third round: * 1 s. c. in center of 4 s. c. of last round, ch. 4, 1 s. C. in the picot, ch. 4 and repeat from * all around.
Fourth round: * I s. C., 2 d. c. in first ch. loop, 1 d. c., ch. 4 and catch back for picot, 1 d. c. all in the s. c. of third round, 2 d. C., 1 s. C. in second loop and repeat from * all around.
Cover the bone rings with s. c. done in gold thread. After lining bag with cloth of gold, fasten rings inside within 1 inch of top of lining.
Make a net cover for chenille tassel with gold thread, as follows: ch. 6 and join, ch. 5, 1 s. c. in next ch. and repeat all around, 6 loops in all. Next two rounds: ch. 5 and fasten with s. c. in center of each loop.

Marie Antoinette Bag

Materials required:

3 pieces Coronation cord, No. 15; 1 ball Cordonnet special, No. 30; 1 Star crochet hook, No. 4

Fasten thread in the center of heavy part of Coronation cord (or body), * ch. 3, twist the next section into a loop and around the crossed narrow (or neck) portions of section, make 3 single crochet stitches (3 s. c.) to hold loop in place, ch. 3, 1 s. c. in center of next body and repeat from * eleven times; then ch. 3, twist loop, as usual, make 1 s. c. around thirteenth loop, then make second s. c., catching it through the centers. c. of the eleventh loop from the beginning of work, also; then 1 more s. c. around thirteenth loop, thus turning and joining the row. Work second side of row like first, joining the center s. c. stitch each time, as directed. Cut off Coronation cord, leaving end same length as the one at the beginning of row. After last joining, ch. 5, and turn. * 1 s. c. in the body part, to the right of center of first loop, ch. 4, 1 s. c. on the left of center of same loop, 1 tr. c. (see page 4) in the center of horizontal body part, ch. 5, another tr. c. in same place and repeat from * 10 times. Make * 1 long treble (wrapping the thread 4 times around the needle), catching it on the right of the crossing of next loop, ch. 4 and repeat from * three times, 1 s. c. in center of turning loop, then work second side to match first, finishing with 1 tr. c. in center of horizontal body.
Next row: ch. 5 and turn, * 1 tr. c. in the space of 4 chs., ch. 3, 1 s. C., ch. 3, another tr. c., all in the same space, make another group in same way in center of the space of 5 chs. and repeat from * until the last space of 5 chs., before first group of long trebles at the beginning of turning is reached. In that space, make 1 tr. c., ch. 3, 3 s. c. Make 6 s. c. in each of the next 8 spaces, then finish second half to match first.
Make 9 more pattern stripes in same manner, joining them when making the final row, as illustrated. This is done after finishing each group by making a slip stitch in the corresponding point on next pattern stripe.
Balls: ch. 4 and join, 8 s. c. in the ring. Do not join as the balls are worked around and around, both threads of stitch being taken up.
Second round: 2 s. c. in each stitch of previous round. Make three more rounds of 16 s. c., then skip every other stitch. Before making final round, fill with cotton and draw up, ch. 6. Make 19 more balls and place, as illustrated.
Sew finished bag to frame and line as desired. Cord is made by chain¬ing the Coronation cord.