Puritan Bag

Materials required:

2 balls of Macrame cord, No. 6; 1 Star crochet hook, No. 2; 1 button mould about 1 1/4 inches in diameter.

CHAIN 75 and turn. Skip first ch., 1 single crochet stitch (1 s. c.) in each of the next to chs., 1 cluster chain made as follows: ch. 3, draw up the loop on needle about 4 in., thread over, pick up a loop in last ch. stitch made, thread over and pick up another loop in same ch., thread over and through all 5 loops on needle and ch. 3. No further refer¬ence will be made tot he details of this cluster ch. Skip 6 of the foundation chs., 1 s. c. in each of the next 18 chs., 1 cluster ch., 1 s. c. in each of the next 10 chs., 1 cluster ch., 1 s. c. in each of the next 18 chs., turn.
Second row: 1 s. c. in each of the first 17 stitches (17 s. c.) taken on back thread only to form a rib, 1 cluster ch., 12 s. c. on the 10 s. c. of preceding row, taking first stitch on last stitch of cluster ch. and last stitch on first stitch of next cluster ch. This is the method of widening for all the diamonds that are in the pattern. The narrowing is done by skipping the first and last stitches on the diamond, excepting that on the bottom of the bag the widening is made by putting an extra s. c. in the final stitch of row and by putting 2 s. c. in first stitch of row as neces¬sary. The top of bag is kept straight. Hereafter the number of stitches only for each diamond will be given. Make 1 cluster ch., 16 s. c., 1 clus¬ter ch., 12 s. c. and turn.
Third row: 14 s. c., 1 cluster ch., 14 s. c., 1 cluster ch., 14 s. c., 1 clus¬ter ch., 16 s. c., and turn.
Fourth row: 15 s. c., 1 cl. ch., 16 s. c., 1 cl. ch., 12 S. C., 1 cl. ch., 16 s. c. and turn.
Fifth row: 18 s. c., 1 cl. ch., 10 s. c., 1 cl. ch., 18 s. c., 1 cl. ch., 14 s. c. and turn.
Sixth row: 4 s. c., 1 cl. ch., 1 cross stitch made as follows: thread over the needle 3 times, pick up a loop in the eleventh stitch of previous row, 5 loops on needle, over and through 2, over and through 2, over and pick up another loop in final s. c. of preceding row, * over and through 2, and repeat from * until 1 loop remains, ch. 2, 1 d. c. caught in the center of crossed treble just made picking up the stitch through the 2 lengthwise threads of center. Make 1 cl. ch., 18 s. c., 1 cl. ch. (t cross stitch, ch. 2, 1 cross stitch) all on the next 10 s. c., 1 cl. ch., 18 s. c., and turn.
Seventh row: 18 s. c., 1 cl. ch., 10 s. c., taken across the top of the 2 cross stitches, 1 cl. ch., 18 s. c., 1 cl. ch., 4 s. c. on cross stitch, 6 s. c. on cluster ch., 4 s. c. to end of row, turn.
Eighth row: 15 s. c., 1 cl. ch., 16s.c., 1 cl. ch., 12 s. c., 1 cl. ch., 16 s. c., turn.
Ninth row: * 14 s. c., 1 cl. ch. and repeat twice from *, 16 s. c., turn.
Tenth row: 17 S. C., I cl. ch., 12 s. c., 1 cl. ch., 16 s. c., 1 cl. ch., 12 s. c., turn.
Eleventh row: 10 s. c., 1 cl. ch., 18 s. c., 1 cl. ch., 10 s. c., 1 cl. ch., 18 s. c., turn.
Twelfth row: 18 s. c. on the 18 s. c., 1 cl. ch. (1 cross st., ch. 2, 1 cross st.), on the 10 ch., 1 cl. ch., 18 s. c., 1 cl. ch., cross stitches as before, turn.
These twelve rows form one pattern. Make seven more patterns and join.
Turnover: beginning on wrong side of bag make 42 s. C. Work back and forth, taking up back thread to form a rib for two more rows; then make one row containing 21 clusters, made in same way as the clus¬ters on chains. Make three more rows of ribbed s. c., then 8 rows, skip¬ping two stitches at each end of every row-, followed by one row of s. c. all around turnover. This should come on the right side of the work. Fasten off. Commence at the other end of turnover and make a row of clusters, turn, 1 row of s. c.
Final row: using 5 strands of thread as a padding cord, work in s. c. over them. In the center of turnover make a loop, large enough to fit over the button mould, covered with s. c., then continue to end. Fasten off.
Finish bottom of bag, as follows: 1 round of clusters worked from the right side. Cut fringe 10 in. long and knot one strand of thread through each stitch, from the wrong side. Still working on wrong side, make a row of s. c. across fringe, taking up 6 strands with each stitch and catching to each point when reached. Knot fringe as illustrated.
Button: ch. 3 and join in a ring. Work around and around and widen just enough to keep work flat until the desired size, then skip every other stitch. Turn so that the wrong side of stitches is exposed, place mould and draw up.
Cord: ch. 3, * make cluster, pulling the loops up about in., ch. 5 and repeat from * for the length desired. Turn and make another cord, as follows: * cluster, ch. 2, then catch with 1 s. c. to center of correspond¬ing place on first cord, ch. 2 and repeat from *.

Grape Bag Design

"GLOSSILLA CROCHET" BAG (GRAPE DESIGN). Materials required: 2 Balls "Glossilla Crochet;" 1 Star Crochet Hook, No. 3 1/2.

TO make first square: chain 20, turn, make one double crochet stitch (1 d. c.) in the 8th chain from the needle, * ch. 2, skip 2 chs., 1 d. c. in the next chain and repeat from * 3 times, thus forming five squares.
Second row: turn, ch. 5, 1 d. c. on the d. c. of preceding row, * ch. 2, 1 d. c. on next d. c. and repeat from * twice, ch. 2, 1 d. c. caught in the third ch. of the 5 chs. made when turning for the preceding row. Re-peat the second row until there are five rows in all (25 squares). Make 3 single crochet stitches (3 s. c.) in the last space formed, 3 s. c. in next space, 2 s. c. in the center space, chain 6, turn and catch down in last s. c. made, to form a ring. Turn, 2 s. c. in the ring, chain 3 to form a picot, 3 s. c., picot, 3 s. c., picot, 2 s. c., all in the ring, 2 more s. c. in center space, 3 s. c. in next space, 7 s. c. in the corner space. Make second, third and fourth sides of square, in the same way, finishing the last corner by put¬ting 4 s. c. there and joining, with a slip stitch to the first of the 3 s. c. made there when beginning the round.
Second round: * chain 6, catch, with slip stitch, in the first picot of the ring, ch. 7, catch in third picot of the same ring, ch. 6, catch in fourth s. c. of the corner space and repeat from * all around.
Third round: 3 s. c. over first space of 6 ch., chain 4 for the picot, 3
s. c., picot, 3 s. c., all in the same space; 3 s. c., picot, 3 s. c., picot, 3 s. c., picot, 3 s. c. in the ch. 7 space, and repeat all around, having the extra picot in each ch. 7 space to form the corners. Fasten off.
The second and all succeeding squares are to be made like the first square, until the final round is reached. On this round they are to be joined, as follows: after making two picots and 3 s. c. on the first 7 ch. space as usual, ch. 2 and catch, with a slip stitch, to third picot on corner of finished square, ch. 2, 3 s. C. in the same 7 ch. space, 3 s. C. in next space, chain 2 and catch in next picot of finished square and continue, in this way, catching each picot of the two squares together and working the s. c. stitches in the spaces, as usual, until the first picot of next corner space has been reached. Do not join the center picots of the corners. Make 18 squares, in all, and join together so that a large square is formed which contains four rows of four squares each. The remaining 2 squares are to be joined on, so that a round containing 6 squares has been made to form the top of the bag. The space below these 2 squares is to be filled in with the grape design.

GRAPES.
Ch. 3 and join in a ring. Make 6 s. c. in the ring; do not join as the work is done around and around.
Second round: 2 s. c. in each stitch. Make one more round of 12 s. c. followed by a round skipping every other stitch. Fasten off. The grapes are turned so that the wrong side of stitch is shown. Make 24 of these grapes and sew together to form two bunches, one containing 15 grapes and the other 9 grapes.
Leaf: chain 10, turn, 1 s. c. in the second chain from needle, 8 more s. c. on chain; put 2 extra s. c. in last ch., then continue working s. c. down the other side of chain until 8 s. c. have been made. * ch. 1, turn, 1 slip stitch in first stitch of preceding row, taking up the back thread only for this and succeeding stitches, to form a rib, 8 s. c., 3 s. c. in the next stitch of the row, then make 8 s. c. on the other side of leaf, and repeat from * until there are 8 rows, in all. When the center of leaf is reached ch. 10, to form the steal, turn and make 9 s. c. on the chain, catch down to center and fasten off. The two leaves on each side of center leaf are made in the same way, omitting the stem, and are joined to the center leaf with 5 slip stitches. Make a second cluster of leaves just like the first.
Cut a stiff paper the length of bag and the width of three of the squares. Fold the work so that the space for the grape design is in the center of the front of the bag. Fold the squares on each side of open space so that one-half is on the back of the paper and the other half on the front. Sew grapes and leaves to paper, as illustrated, and fill in with picots, as fol¬lows: catch in corner and work across the lower part of the two squares, * chain 6, catch back in fourth chain to form a picot, ch. 3 and catch on the picot of the square, thus forming one filling picot. Repeat from all along, catching to other side of the opening at the end of each row. Work back and forth, catching down in center of picot of preceding row, until all the filling is clone, catching in the grapes and leaves when neces¬sary. Close the bottom of the bag with s. c. stitches with ch. 3 between each stitch, catching the balls on, at regular intervals.
Cord. Use the Glossilla double and make a chain three yards long, turn and work back on the chain, 1 slip stitch in each chain to the end.
Balls. Make as grapes were made up to and including third round. Make fourth round like third, then fill with wool and work around, skip¬ping every other stitch until one remains, chain 6 and catch back to ball and fasten off. There are 12 balls on the model bag.

Empire Reticule

EMPIRE RETICULE.
Materials required
2 large skeins Perle Cotton, No. 3 ; 1 Star crochet hook, No. 1 ; 1 bone or amber crochet hook, No. 7.

THIS reticule is made of 24 squares joined together so that each side is three squares wide and four squares in depth. To make the first square: use the No. 1 needle, chain 20, turn, make one double crochet stitch (1 d. c.) in the eighth chain from the needle, * ch. 2, skip 2 chs., 1 d. c. in the next chain and repeat from * 3 times, thus forming five squares.
Second row: turn, ch. 5, 1 d. c. on the d. c. of preceding row, * ch. 2, 1 d. c. on next d. c. and repeat from * twice, ch. 2, 1 d. c. caught in the third ch. of the 5 chs. made when turning for the preceding row. Re¬peat the second row until there are five rows in all (25 squares). Make 3 single crochet stitches (3 s. c.) in the last space formed, 3 s. c. in next space, 2 s. c. in the center space, chain 6, turn and catch down in last s. c. made, to form a ring. Turn, 2 s. c. in the ring, chain 3 and catch back to form a picot, 3 s. c., picot, 3 s. c., picot, 2 s. c., all in the ring, 2 more s. c. in center space, 3 s. c. in next space, 7 s. c. in the corner space. Make second, third and fourth sides of square, in the same way, finishing the last corner by putting 4 s. c. there and joining, with a slip stitch, to the first of the three s. c. made there when beginning the round.
Second round: * chain 6, catch, with slip stitch, in the first picot of the ring, ch. 7, catch in third picot of the same ring, ch. 6, catch in fourth s. c. of the corner space and repeat from * all around.
Third round: 3 s. c. over first space of 6 ch., chain 4 for the picot, 3 s. c., picot, 3 s. c., all in the same space; 3 s. c., picot, 3 s. c., picot, 3 s. c., picot, 3 s. c. in the ch. 7 space, and repeat all around, having the extra picot in each ch. 7 space to form the corners. Fasten off.
The second and all succeeding squares are to be made like the first square, until the final round is reached. On this round they arc to be joined, as follows: after making two picots and 3 s. c. on the first 7 ch. space as usual, ch. 2 and catch, with a slip stitch, to third picot on corner of finished square, ch. 2, 3 s. c. in the same 7 ch. space, 3 s. c. in next space, chain 2 and catch in next picot of finished square and continue, in this way, catching each picot of the two squares together and working the s. c. stitches in the spaces, as usual, until the first picot of next corner space has been reached. Do not join the center picots of the corners.
Cordeliere : still using the No. 1 hook, make a chain six yards long, or longer if an extra length cordeliere is desired. Turn, skip the chain next to the needle and make 1 s. c. in each succeeding ch. until the work measures 20 in.; then, without breaking thread, make another chain, long enough to reach within 20 in. of the beginning of first chain made. Make 1 s. c. in each chain to the end, thus forming two ends to be run through the openings at the bottom of first row of squares and the top of second row of squares, with two long chains between. Now, with No. 7 needle, crochet a chain beginning at the end of one s. c. strip and ending at the other s. c. strip, using the two lengths of chain as one thread.

Slip Balls: chain 6 and join in a ring, 12 s. c. in the ring. Do not join, as the balls are worked around and around, both threads of stitch being taken up.
Second round: * 2 s. c. in first stitch, 1 s. c. in next, repeat from * all around. Make 4 more rounds of 18 stitches, followed by 2 rounds skipping every third stitch. Fasten off, but leave a long end of thread. Slip ball on cordeliere and after running the end of cord through the openings and fastening it firmly, slip ball over the joining, fill with cot¬ton and draw up with the thread left. Fasten two balls to the slip ball.
Balls: chain 4 and join in a ring. Make 8 s. c. in the ring.
Next round: 1 s. c., 2 s. c. in next stitch and repeat all around.
Make four more rounds of 12 s. c., then two rounds, skipping every third stitch on each round. Fill with cotton and make two rounds skip¬ping every other stitch. Draw up with 1 s. c., chain 6 and fasten off. Make 13 more balls in the same manner. Fasten ten balls across the bottom of reticule and two balls on each slip ball.

Dolly Varden Bag

Materials required:
6 cards of Klondyke Crochet Gold; 2 yards of Klondyke Gold Cord, No. 748; 1 Star Crochet Hook, No. 31/2.
CHAIN 10 and join in a ring. Chain 3, to count as 1 d. c., then make 23 more d. c. in the ring and join.
Second round: ch. 6, * 1 d. c. in second ch. of preceding round, ch. 3 and repeat from * all around. Join, forming 12 spaces.
Third round: make 12 spokes, as follows: * ch. 15, 1 d. c. in the fourth ch., make 11 more d. c. on the chain, catch with a slip stitch, to the next d. c. of second round and repeat from * all around. Make 12 more spokes, in same way, catching them in the c11. 3 of second round, thus making these spokes back of the first round of spokes. Fasten off.
Fourth round: * 1 s. c. in front spoke, ch. 3, 1 s. c. in next back spoke, ch. 3 and repeat from * all around.
Fifth round: slip stitch to center of next space, c11. 3, to count as 1 d. c., 2 more d. c. in same space, * ch. 3, 3 d. c. in next space and repeat from four times, ch. 3, 1 extra group of 3 d. c. in same space to form a corner; then make six more groups of d. c., as before, widen for second corner and continue in same way all around, making four corners and join.
Sixth round: slip stitch back into space after corner, then * ch. 7, 1 s. c. in second ch. to form a picot, ch. 8, 1 s. c. in third ch. to form second picot, ch. 2, thus forming one set of picots, 1 s. c. in next space and repeat from all around, widening by putting an extra set of picots in each corner.
Seventh and eighth rounds: ch. 2, 1 s. c. in center between picots of preceding rounds, then proceed as for sixth round. Fasten off at the end of eighth round.
Ninth round: fasten thread in corner picot, ch. 6, 1 d. c. in same space, ch. 4, 1 d. c., ch. 3, 1 d. c. all in the center of next picot and repeat from all around, not widening at the corners.
Tenth round: a group of 3 d. c. in each space of preceding round, chaining 1 between each group. Widen for corners as was clone in fifth round. This completes one side of the bag. Make second side in same manner.
Join the two sides by putting 1 s. c. through first space of both sides, ch. 5, 1 s. c. in second ch. to form picot, ch. 1, 1 s. c. through next spaces and repeat from * all around, putting an extra picot in each corner.
Border. 1 s. c. in space, * ch. 4, 1 s. c. in next space and repeat from *. Make two rounds of beading, as follows: * 2 treble crochet stitches in space, ch. 2 and repeat from * all around.
Fourth round: 1 s. c. in space, * ch. 5, 1 s. c. in next space and repeat from * all around.
Final round: same as the joining round.
Discs. Chain 4 and join in a ring. 8 s. c. in the ring. Do not join.
Second round: 2 s. c. in each stitch taken through the double thread.
Third round: * ch. 3, 1 s. c. in each of the next 2 stitches and repeat from *. On four discs ch. 10 and fasten off. On 2 more discs, ch. 13 and fasten off.
Slip Balls. Chain 6 and join in a ring, 12 s. C. in the ring.
Second round: 2 s. c. in each stitch. Make six more rounds of 24 s. c., followed by 2 rounds skipping every third stitch. Fasten off but leave long end of thread. Slip ball on cord and after running the end of cord through the beading and fastening it firmly, fasten three discs on the joining, then slip ball over the joining, fill with cotton and draw up with the thread left. Run the second cord through the other beading and pro¬ceed as before working from the other side of the bag to make the cords draw properly.

Irish Crochet Reticule

Materials required:
1 large skein Perle Cotton, No. 3 ; 1 Star crochet hook,
No. 1 1/2

THE Rose is made first.
Chain 6 and join in a ring.
Second round: chain 5, * 1 d. c. in the ring, ch. 2 and repeat from * 4 times, join to third chain of the chain 5 at beginning of the round, with a slip stitch, thus forming six spaces.
Third round: turn, 1 s. c., 6 treble crochet (see page 4), 1 s. c. all in the first space, repeat in each space of round, chain 3, turn work and catch around first spoke of second round, with a slip stitch.
Fourth round: chain 6, catch around next spoke and repeat all around. '1' urn.
Fifth round: 1 s. c., 9 tr. c., 1 s. c. in first space and repeat all around, chain 3 and turn.
Sixth round: catch around first spoke of fourth round with a slip stitch, ch. 8 and catch around next spoke and repeat all around, turn work.
Seventh round: 1 s. c., 13 tr. c., 1 s. c. in each space all around, ch. 3 and turn.
Eighth round: catch around first spoke, ch. lo, catch around next spoke and repeat all around. Turn.

Ninth round: 1 s. c., 15 tr. c., 1 s. c. in each space. This completes the rose.

Leaf: chain 10, turn and make 9 s. c. on one side of the chain, ch. 3, 6 s. c. down other side of the chain, ch. 3 and turn. 1 slip stitch in the first stitch of preceding row, taken on the back thread to form a rib, 6 s. c. Chain 3, skip 1 ch., 6 s. c. down the other side, as in first petal, ch. 3 and turn.
Continue in this way, working back and forth until there are six petals on each side of leaf in addition to the center petal, then chain 5, turn, 4 s. c. on chain just made, then s. c. down center of leaf, to form vein. Make two more leaves in the same way.
Sew motifs on a piece of cambric, 93 in. by 8j, in the desired de¬sign, and fill in with picots around the rose and leaves.
First round around rose: catch thread in second treble of petal, chain 7 and catch back in second chain to form picot, chain 8, catch back in third chain, to form another picot, ch. 2 and catch down in middle of petal, with a single crochet. This forms one set of picots. Make another set of picots and catch clown in the next to the last treble of petal and continue in this way all around rose. Make a second round of picots around the rose, on this round and all succeeding rounds making the set of picots, as directed for the first round and catching down the picots in the center between the two picots of preceding round. Keep the sets of picots as nearly even in size as possible. When working around the leaves the picots are caught down on every other petal.

When the desired size has been attained, fasten off.
Make the reverse side of reticule entirely of picots and the same size as first side; then join with a single crochet caught through the center of picots on each side, chain 6 and catch down again and repeat on three sides of reticule. Turn, * 2 s. c. in ch. 6 just made, ch. 3 and catch back for a picot, 3 s. c., ch. 3 and catch back for a picot, 2 s. c. and repeat from * in each chain 6 all around.
Make a round of ribbon holes around top by making 1 d. c., ch. 2 and skipping enough chains to keep work flat and repeating all around. Make a second round of ribbon holes, putting the d. c. in the top of d. c. of preceding round. Then make a final round to match the final round as made around the sides of reticule.
Balls: chain 4 and join in a ring. Make 8 s. c. in the ring. Do not join as the balls are worked around and around, both threads of stitch being taken up.
Next round: 1 s. c., 2 s. c. in next stitch and repeat all around.
Make four more rounds of 12 s. c., then two rounds skipping every third stitch on each round. Fill with cotton and make two rounds skipping every other stitch. Draw up with 1 s. c., chain 12 and fasten off. Tic a small knot in the ch. close to top of ball. Make eleven more balls and put five on each side of reticule and two across the bottom.

Ring and Mesh Bag

Materials required:

4 cards of Klondyke Crochet Gold; 88 Brass curtain rings, inch; 4 yards silk cord, No. 160; 1 Star crochet hook, No. 3 1/2.

Cover 25 rings and connect them, as follows: 14 s. c. in first ring, then * without breaking thread, make 14 s. C. in another ring and repeat from * until all have been worked over. Put 14 more s. c. in the twenty-fifth ring to cover it completely, then work back, putting 14 s. c. on the other side of each ring and 1 s. c. over the connecting thread between each ring.
Cover 14 rings, in the same manner, but join first ring to last to form a circle.
Commence the bag in the center, as follows: cover one ring with 28 s. c. and join, 1 s. c. in the joining stitch, * draw up the loop on hook about 1/2 inch, thread over and through loop this time very short since it is really the first loop of an s. c. Take tip the second loop of the s. c. through the new long loop. Pull thread through the 2 loops on needle and the s. c. (or knot, as it is called) is finished. The present loop on the needle should be pulled up long and corresponds to the first loop made. When it is pulled up, hold the knot just made between the thumb and fore¬finger and repeat the directions from *, thus forming one set of knots. Make 1 s. c. in each of the next two stitches on the ring and repeat from the beginning all around, ending with 1 s. c. Fourteen knot stitch loops, in all.
Third round: ch. 3, then catch in the top of first knot of preceding round, putting 1 s. c. through the double thread on the right side of knot and another s. c. on the left side of knot, * make one long loop and one knot, then 1 s. c. in the center of one ring, of the circle of 14 rings, a long loop and knot caught, as directed, in the next knot of second round and repeat from * all around. Join to each ring of circle, in turn. Fasten off.
Fourth round: 1 s. c. in the fifth stitch of ring, 1 set of knots, 1 s. c. in the tenth stitch of same ring, 1 set of knots and repeat from * in each ring all around. 28 sets of knots.
Fifth round: commence as for third round, then make 28 sets of knots catching as directed in each knot of preceding round.
Sixth round: make one set of knots, 1 s. c. in the third ring of the 25 covered rings, starting the left side of bag, then continue as third round was made up to the third ring on the opposite side. Work back and forth in knot stitch, to form the top of the bag, catching in the rings on each side when reached, as before, until the last ring has been caught into. Fasten off. This completes one side of the bag. Make second side like first and join them, as follows: * 1 s. c. over joining thread between first 2 rings, working from the back, 1 set of knots and repeat from * to the other end.
Second row : turn, making 3 loops and 3 knots, catch in last knot of first row, then finish row as usual. Make two more rows of knot stitch on the last one joining on the second side to correspond to first one. Hold two rings together and make 28 s. c. over them and fasten between first and second rings. Do this for each corner. Use a piece of klondyke Gold cord or crochet a chain of two yards and twenty-one inches after it has been stretched. Fold in half, then divide into three parts of six strands. Twist into a cord, then pull same through top ring, through knot loops, through ring on the other end, then through other side, in same way. Fasten ends together. Take 21 inches of silk cord and twist around gold cord, as illustrated.
Make two handles of remaining silk cord and sew to bag.

Knot Stitch Reticule

Materials required:

4 balls "Solitaire Knitting"; 1 bone crochet hook, No. 1.
CHAIN 10 and join.
Chain 3, make 23 d. c. stitches in the ring, join to top of 3 chain, making 24 stitches in all, the ch. 3 counting as 1 d. c.
Second round: chain 8, turn, skip first ch. and make 1 s. c. in each of the 7 remaining chs., * turn, ch. 1, 1 s. c. in each of the 7 s. c. of preced¬ing row, taking up the back thread only, to form a rib. Repeat from until there are 4 rows in all, thus forming one block, slip stitch back over last row. * Chain 8, skip 3 stitches on the ring, 1 s. c. in the next, turn and make another block on the chain 8, as before. Omit the row of slip stitches and repeat from * until there are six blocks around the center ring. Join last block to corner of first block made and make a row of slip stitches to upper point.
Third round: * chain 8, 1 treble crochet (see page 4) between the 2 blocks, chain 8, I s. c. in upper corner of next block and repeat from all around. Join.
Fourth round: ch. 3 to form 1 d. c., then 1 d. c. in each stitch of round, join and turn.
Fifth round: 1 s. c. in each stitch of fourth round. Repeat fourth and fifth rounds, widening only if necessary to keep the work perfectly flat until bottom of bag is the desired size. There are 2 rounds of each stitch, in the model bag.
Knot Stitch: * draw up the loop on hook about 12 inch, thread over and through loop this time very short since it is really the first loop of an s. c. Take up the second loop of the s. c. through the new long loop. Pull thread through the 2 loops on needle and the s. c. (or knot, as it is called) is finished. The present loop on the needle should be pulled up long and corresponds to the first loop made. When it is pulled up, hold the knot just- made between the thumb and forefinger and repeat the directions from *. Skip 2 chains on the bottom of bag and make 1 s. c. in each of the next 2 stitches and repeat from beginning all around the bag.
Second round: * make 2 loops and 2 knots as before, then catch down in the first knot of preceding round, putting t s. c. through the double thread on the right side of knot and another s. c. on the left side of knot. Repeat from * all around.
Repeat the second round until there are 16 rounds of knot stitches, in all.
Seventeenth round: * ch. 4, 1 s. c. on each side of knot and repeat from * all around.
Eighteenth round: 7 s. c. in each ch. of four.
Nineteenth round: 1 s. c. in each stitch of preceding round.

Beading. First round: 1 s. c., * ch. 7, skip 3 s. c. on preceding round, 1 s. c. in the next stitch, ch. 3, thread over, as for d. c., pick up a loop in same space as last s. c., thread over and through 2 loops, thread over and pick up another loop in same space, over and through 2, over and through 2, over and through 2, thus forming one long double crochet stitch (1 ldc.). Skip 3 s. c. on row and make 1 ldc. in the next stitch, ch. 3, 1 s. c. in same stitch and repeat from * all around. Fasten off.
Second round: 1 s. c. in center of 7 ch., * ch. 3, 1 l. d. c. in space be¬tween the 1. d. c. of preceding round, ch. 3, fasten with 1 s. c. in same space, ch. 3, another l. d. c. in same space, ch. 3, 1 s. c. in center of 7 ch. Repeat from * all around.
Third round: ch. 3, 1 s. c. on top of l. d. c., ch. 3, 1 s. c. on top of next l. d. c. and repeat all around.
Fourth round: 2 s. c. over 3 ch. of preceding round, ch. 3, 2 more s. c. in same space and repeat in each space all around.
Fifth round: chain 7, 1 s. c. caught in fourth round just over the s. c. of third round and repeat all around.
Sixth round: 2 s. c., ch. 3, 2 s. c., ch. 3, 2 s. c. all in the first chain 7 space and repeat all around.
Cord: chain 6 and join. On the chain make 5 s. c. Work around and around, picking up the outside thread only, thus having the wrong side of the stitch show. Make two cords, each one yard long. Cut two pieces of cardboard the size of bottom of bag, cover with lining material. Take a strip about seven inches deep and the width of top of bag, gather one edge and sew to one of the round pieces. Put the other round piece over this to cover the scam and sew top of lining to bag just below the beading.

Klondyke Coin Purse

Materials required:
3 cards Klondyke Crochet Gold; 1 bunch gold beads, No. 8; 1 brass curtain ring, 1 in.; 2 1/2 yds. Klondyke Gold Cord, No. 752; 2o brass curtain rings, 1/4 in.; 1 Star Crochet hook, No. 4.

Chain 82: insert the hook in the fourth ch. from the needle and make 1 double crochet stitch (1 d. c.). Continue making 1 d. c. in each ch. to the other end of foundation ch., 8o d. c., in all, counting the turning ch. as 1 d. c.
Second row: turn, ch. 3, 1 cl. c. in each stitch of preceding row, taking up back thread only, to form a rib. The 8o stitches should measure 6 inches in length. Repeat the second row until eleven rows, in all, have been made and fasten off. Make another section in same manner.
Sew up each section, using gold thread, leaving eight stitches unjoined at one end to form the turnover.
Cover five rings, for each end, as follows: 20 s. c. in the first ring, then without breaking thread make 10 s. c. in another ring and repeat from * three times. Make 10 more s. c. in the final ring to cover it com¬pletely, then work back putting 1 s. c. over connecting thread between each ring and 10 s. c. on the other side of each ring and fasten off.
Sew rings in place, as illustrated, and finish with a fringe of beads, made as follows: catch double thread of sewing silk firmly on first side of first ring, string 11 beads, then string 8 more and catch in first of these 8 beads, inserting the needle the other way, to form a circle, string 12, pass needle through head next to ring, then fasten neatly to foundation ring. * Slip thread across back of ring to third stitch, string 4 beads, skip first 4 beads of preceding 12 beads, including the one next to ring, pass needle downward through next 5 heads, string 4 beads, then 8, catch¬ing as before, to form a circle, string 12, pass needle through bead next to ring, fasten to foundation ring and repeat from * fastening twice in each ring across hag. After making the last circle of 8 beads, string to and fasten as usual. Lace the two sections together with the gold cord. Fasten one end firmly to the top of under part of section, then pass other end between the eighth and ninth stitches, (the turnover being 8 stitches deep), pass through corresponding place in second section, then through top of first row of under part of section, through second row of under part of section, through turnover, then to first section. (continue working in this way in every row of d. c. and at the end, fasten cord, firmly. Arrange the cord evenly, then, using gold thread, overhand across the top of each under section to keep cord from slipping. Cover nearly all of the large ring with s. c., then slip it over one section to the center of the cords, place outer cord next to last s. c., then make 1 s. c. on the other side of cord. *Place next cord, 1 s. c. on the other side of cord and repeat from * until all the cords are in position. Cover remainder of ring with s. c. and fasten of.

The Wesley

ABBREVIATIONS USED IN THIS BOOK
B Bead or Beads
CH Chain
Cr Crochet
H. St Half Stitch
K Knit
L Line
P.H.S Plain Half Stitch
PL Plain
R Ridge
SLD Slide
ST Stitch
"THE WELLESLEY" No. 116
Materials: 20 Bchs. "Hiawatha" cut beads 9/0.
2 spools purse twist
1 Pair "Hiawatha" knitting pins size 17.
1 Pair "Hiawatha" knitting pin protectors. 1 "Hiawatha" drawstring cord No. 725.
This model made with black purse twist and crystal gems No. 21/9 looks particularly well.
Size of Bag: Width 5 1/2 inches-length 6 1/2 inches.
This bag is made in 7 vertical patterns of bead slides in diamond shapes and graduated stripes with plain knitting between the patterns as follows:
Cast on 63 St.-K. 1 R. (ridge) Pl. K. 8 R. with 1 B. in each St., always coming back with Pl. St. (No beads) on inside of bag.
10th R. K. 1 P1. K. 2B. K. 1 Pl. Slide Pattern 1 (see table below). K. 1 Pl. K. 2 B. * K. 2 Pl. K. 2 B. K. 1 Pl. Slide Pattern 2
(starting diamond).
K.1 Pl. K. 2 B. K. 2 Pl. K. 2 B. K. 1 Pl. Slide Pattern 3. K. 1 Pl. K. 2 B. *. Repeat from * to * 2 more times and finish with 1 Pl. St. Note: When knitting back on inside of bag to complete the ridge, always knit plain except when sliding beads.
Note that balance of bag is made exactly as the 10th ridge with the exceution of the patterns which are made in the following manner:

Vertical Pattern 2-4-6 are for Diamond Shapes
** On 1 st R. – Slide 1 B.
On 2 nd R. – Slide 2 B.
On 3 rd R. – Slide 3 B.
On 4 th R. – Slide 4 B.
On 5 th R. – Slide 5 B.
On 6 th R. – Slide 6 B.
On 7 th R. – Slide 7 B.
On 8 th R. – Slide 8 B.
On 9 th R. – Slide 8 B.
On 10 th R. – Slide 8 B.
On 11 th R. – Slide 7 B.
On 12 th R. – Slide 6 B.
On 13 th R. – Slide 5 B.
On 14 th R. – Slide 4 B.
On 15 th R. – Slide 3 B.
On 16 th R. – Slide 2 B.
On 17 th R. – Slide 1 B. **
This Completes 1 full diamond.
Repeat from ** to ** until 9 diamonds Finished.
Note: slides no. 2-4-6 are exactly the same

Vertical Patterns 1-3-5-7 are for Graduated Stripes
*** On 1 st to 9 th R. – Slide 2 B.
On 10 th to 20 th R. – Slide 3 B.
On 21 st to 31 st R. – Slide 4 B.
On 32 nd to 44 th R. – Slide 5 B.
On 45 th to 57 th R. – Slide 6 B.
On 58 th to 68 th R. – Slide 7 B.
On 69 th to 80 th R. – Slide 8 B. ***

This completes the graduated stripe for 1/2 the
Bag. Repeat from *** to *** in reverse order for
the other half of the bag.
Note: Slides No. 1-3-5-7 are exactly
the same.

Tabs: Cast on 9 St. * K. 1 P1. K. 7 B. K 1 Pl. coming back with a line of plain in the back *. Repeat from * to * until tab measures 2 inches. Make 8 tabs. Attach tabs to bag, 4 on each side, leaving 1 end loose on each.
Lining & Mounting: Sew up sides of bag. Line bag with piece of silk and attach drawstring cord, and sew up loose ends of tabs. Then sew 4 loops 3 inches long on each side at top of bag.

The Silver Glo

Materials: 4 Bchs. "Hiawatha" Silver-Glo Gems No. 3117. 1 spool Purse twist. 1 "Hiawatha" steel crochet hook No. 9. 1 "Hiawatha" Filigree Frame No. 5888/4.
Silver-Glo Gems come in a large variety of colors that can be blended into the most beautiful shades.
Size of Bag: Width at top 4 inches-Bottom 5 1/2 inches-Length 6 1/2 inches.
Pattern stitch used throughout the bag (3 chain, 1 B. 1 H. St.)
Chain 8 and join to form a ring. Fill in with 28 P. H. S. Then Cr. 3 chain St. with 1 B. in every other H. St.
Continue working around circle increasing 7 B. in each row for 22 rows, keeping the work flat and even.
Top:-23rd row: Continue without any increase, gathering in the previous row evenly and carefully. Decrease the bag gradually in the next 2 rows until the circumference measures 11 inches.
26th row: Work one-half of the circle (22 beads) then turn bag and make 1 row of PI. St. (3 chain), turn again and make 1 row with B. Continue alternating 1 row Pl. and 1 row of B. decreasing 1 St. at each end. Make about 6 rows of B. in this way until top fits frame. It is best to decrease the Pl. rows to get an even graduation.
Tassel: Attach thread to centre at bottom of bag and string 6 inches of B. (making a 3 inch loop). Make 4 loops.
Lining and Mounting: Line bag with piece of silk and attach frame

THE FRENCH SCARF CHAIN No. C5

Materials: 2 Bchs. "Hiawatha" Silver Glo Gems No. 3117.
2 Bchs. "Hiawatha" Cut Crystallized Gems No. 3129. 2 Beaded Balls No. 2523.
50 Yards Buttonhole Twist.
1 "Hiawatha" Steel Crochet Hook No. 10. 2 "Hiawatha" Beading Needles.

The important part of making this model is the stringing of the beads. String 1 round bead and 1 cut bead alternately 1/2 bunch of each at a time. Ch 5. Put hook in chain nearest to hook*. Push up a bead single crochet or (slip stitch)*. Put hook into the next chain and repeat from * to *. Until there are 4 beads in a row, then join by putting hook under the thread the first bead is on. Continue this way by going behind each bead, catching the thread the bead is on, crocheting around and around until the chain measures 60 inches-attach 1 beaded ball at each end and a tassel of 5 strings of beads 4 inches long

The Mandalay

Materials: 20 Bchs. "Hiawatha" Crystal Gems No. 21/9.
1 spool purse twist.
1 pair "Hiawatha" steel knitting pins No. 17.
1 pair "Hiawatha" knitting pin protectors.
1 "Hiawatha" 5-inch filigree frame No. 5896.
A distinctive bag made with Crystal Gems No. 21/9 on a dark back¬ground.

Size of Bag: Width 5 inches-length 6 inches.
Cast on 58 St. K. 2 R. (ridges) PI. without B. (2 rows make 1 ridge).
3rd row: * K. 1 Pl. K. 1 St. with 2 inches of B. to form a loop. Repeat from * to * across bag making a row of loop fringes.
The balance of this bag is made in 7 vertical patterns of bead slides in diamond shapes with plain knitting between the patterns as follows:
4th Ridge-K. 4 Pl. K. 3 B. K. 2 Pl. Sld. Pattern 1 (see table below). K. 2 Pl. K. 3B. K. 2 Pl. Sld. Pattern 2. K. balance of ridge in the same manner, making patterns 3-5 & 7 same as pattern 1, and pat¬terns 4-6 same as pattern 2. Finish with 4 Pl. St.
The following table shows how many beads to slide in every ridge for each pattern:

Vertical Patterns No. 1-3-5-7.
4th- 5th R. Slide 1 B.

6th- 7th R.- " 2 B.
8th-11th R.- “ 3 B.
12th-13th R.-“ 2 B.
14th-15th R.- " I B.
16th-17th R.- " 1 B.
18th R.- " 2 B.
19th R.- " 3 B.
20th R.- " 5 B.
21st R.- " 7 B.
22nd R.- " 8 B.
23rd R.- " 7 B.
24th R.- " 5 B.
25th R.- " 3 B.
26th R.- " 2 B.
27th-28th R.- " 1 B.

Vertical Patterns No. 2-4-6
4th R.-Slide 8 B.

4th R.- Slide |8 B.
5th R.- " 7 B.
6th R.- " 5 B.
7th R.- " 3 B.
8th R.- 2 B.
9th-10th R.- " 1 B.
11th-12th R.- " 1 B.
13th-14th R.- " 2 B.
15th-18th R.- " 3 B.
19th-20th R.- " 2 B.
21st-22nd R.- " 1 B.
23rd-24th R.- " 1 B.
25th R.- " 2 B.
26th R.- " 3 B.
27th R.- 5 B.
28th R.- " 7 B.

Note that patterns 1-3-5-7 are exactly the same.
Note that patterns 2-4-6 are exactly the same.

29th to 52nd R. Repeat from 4th to 28th Ridges.
53rd to 76th R. Repeat from 4th to 28th Ridges.
This completes one-half the bag. Make the other half in exactly the same manner in reverse order.
Sew up sides of bag, leaving enough space open at top for frame.
Loops on side of bag are made by stringing 1 1/2 inches of beads double, to form a loop, and sewn close together from bottom to top of bag. Make a double row of these loop fringes on each side of bag, leav¬ing a small space between the two rows.
Line bag with piece of silk and attach frame.

The Niagara

Materials: 20 Bchs. "Hiawatha" cut beads 9/0.
2 spools purse twist.
1 "Hiawatha" steel crochet hook No. 9.
1 "Hiawatha" Filigree Frame No. 5863.
A striking combination is obtained by using the new Opalescent Gems No. 23/9 with old gold purse twist. Original model made with Black Purse twist and "Hiawatha" Porcelain chalk beads No. 84.
Size of Bag: Width 5 inches. Length 6 inches.
Start with 66 chain St.,
2nd to 11th rows. Cr. on each side of chain P. H. S. Continue Cr. around bag in this manner, making 10 rows of P. H. S.
12th row: Cr. 1 B. then 1 loop (long enough to cover rows of plain stitches beneath). Continue across," making 10 loops. Cr. 26 P. H. S. (no beads). Cr. 1 loop (as before) 1 B., etc., making 20 loops. Cr. 26 P. H. S. (no beads). Repeat 1 loop, 1 B., etc., making 10 loops.
13th to 22nd rows: Same as 2nd to 11th rows.
23rd row: Same as 12th row.
24th to 33rd rows: Same as 2nd to 11th rows.
34th row: Cr. 1 B. 1 loop (as before), etc., making 10 loops. Cr. 12 P. H. S. Cr. 2 loops 3 1/2 inches long. 12 P. H. S. Then 1 loop, 1 B., etc., making 20 loops. 12 P. H. S. and 2 loops 3 1/2 inches long. 12 P. H. S. 1 loop, 1 B., etc., making 10 loops. Continue crocheting design, using the illustrated chart as a guide.
Lining and Mounting: Attach bag frame and line bag with silk.

The Mignonette

Materials: 6 Bchs. "Hiawatha" crystallized gems No. 3129.
1 Spool Purse Twist.
1 "Hiawatha" Steel Crochet Hook No. 9.
1 Pair "Hiawatha" beaded rings No. 3137.
Made with a new bead in size that can be had in unusually brilliant shades-specially adapted for making all kinds of bags and chains.
Size of Bag: Width at top 4 1/2 inches-width at bottom 5 inches. Length 6 inches.
Pattern stitch used throughout the bag (2 chain, 1 bead, 1 half stitch).
Start with about 60 chain St. or 5 inches long. Cr. all around Ch. with P. H. S. (no beads). Then Cr. 2 Ch. St. with 1 13. in every other H. St. Continue Cr. around bag in this manner until 37 rows of B. are finished.
Top: * crochet back and forth on one side of bag. Make 11 rows of B., decreasing 1 St. at each end about every third row.* Repeat from * to * for other side of bag.
Tabs: Start with 6 Ch. St. Cr. 1 row P. H. S. Then Cr. 4 B., using the same St. as used in rest of bag. Cr. 8 rows of B. in this manner-make 4 tabs.
Fringe: String 21 B. and go back through the 7th B. from the top. String 6 more B. and fasten to bag. Repeat 20 times. Tassels on side of bag are made by stringing 4 inches of B. (which makes a 2 inch loop) and attaching right under opening at side of bag. Make 3 loops on each side.
Line bag with piece of silk, putting a piece of stiff buckram between lining and beadwork at top of bag, where sides are open.
Sew 2 tabs on each side at top of bag, leaving 1 end loose, insert beaded rings and sew down loose ends of tabs.

"THE NOTRE DAME" No. C6

Materials: 3 Bchs. "Hiawatha" Crystallized Gems No. 3129.
1 "Hiawatha" Steel Crochet Hook No. 10. 50 Yards Buttonhole Twist or Tatting Thread. 2 Beaded Balls No. 2523.
2 Pcs. each of "Hiawatha" Real Venetian Beads, round and oblong.

Ch 5. Put hook in chain nearest to hook*. Push up a bead single crochet or (slip stitch)*. Put hook into the next chain and repeat from * to *. Until there are 4 beads in a row, then join by putting hook under the thread the first bead is on. Continue this way by going behind each bead, catching the thread the bead is on, crocheting around and around until the chain measures desired length or 54 inches.
Tassels: Attach tassels as illustrated.

The Fan Tan

Materials: 12 Bchs. "Hiawatha" quality beads size 9/0.
1 spool purse twist.
2 "Hiawatha" steel knitting pins No. 17.
1 Pair "Hiawatha" Knitting Pin protectors. 1 "Hiawatha" bag frame No. 5935.
A good combination is obtained by using grey silk and red transparent-irridescent beads No. 1105.
Size of bag: 5 inches wide at top-6 inches long.
Cast on 48 St. K. 1 ridge Pl. (2 rows make 1 ridge). K. 4 ridges with 1 B. in each St. always coining back with a line of Pl. (without beads) on inside of bag. K. 3 Pl. St. at the end of each row.
11th R. K. 3 Pl. * Slide 1 B. K. 5 Pl. * Repeat from * to * 8 times, making 9 diamonds in all across bag. Finish line with 3 Pl. St. K. the next line in the same manner, sliding 2 beads instead of 1. Continue this way, increasing the slides in every line until there are 8B. slides. This completes 1/2 the diamond. Repeat in reverse order for the other half of the diamond.
26th-27th R.: K. 1 B. in each St. across line, starting and finishing with 3 Pl. St. at each end.
28th R.: K. 3 Pl. ** Slide I B. K. 5 Pl. ** Repeat from ** to ** 8 times, making 9 slides in all. Finish line with 3 Pl St.
K. the following R. in the same manner, increasing the slides as follows:

2 Ridges Slide 2 Beads 5 Ridges Slide 5 Beads
3 Ridges Slide 3 Beads 6 Ridges Slide 6 Beads
4 Ridges Slide 4 Beads 21 -Ridges Slide 7 Beads

This completes one-half the bag. For the other half repeat in reverse order. Sew up sides of bag, leaving an opening at the top to fit frame. Line with piece of silk and attach frame.